How To Reset a Hunter X Core Controller

Posted on 14th September 2012 in Controllers, General, Installations, What's Going on There?


If you have an X Core controller that seems to be playing up then the most likely cause is that it needs resetting.

This can be done easily.

1. Press and hold the ‘PROG’  button.


2.  While holding the  ‘PROG’  button press the RESET button for 3 seconds, then release the RESET button while continuing to hold the ‘PROG’  button.


3.  Continue holding ‘PROG’ button until time is displayed (this takes about 8 seconds)

Locating Solenoids in Reticulation Systems

Posted on 21st October 2011 in Installations, solenoids

This can be one of the most time consuming and frustrating parts of the retic work.

But, assuming the person installing has been thinking logically you should be able to track them down.

Master Solenoid – this is invariably next to the water meter and usually within a meter of it. If is isn’t there then look near the control box as sometimes plumbers cut into the mains further up the line, especially if the driveway has been concreted and space is at a premium.



Station Valves Front – usually these will be near the master solenoid. Poke around with a screwdriver or sharp object to try and find them. Older properties had them dotted all around the place but in the last 10 years or so most retic blokes make a ‘manifold’ of 3 or 4 valves and locate them together for ease of location and repair. Above you can see the dual check valve going into the master valve and then the two station valves.


Station Valves Rear – The big tip here is that these should be on the same side of the house as the water meter on most properties. Simply go to the end of the paving down the side of the house and look in the garden bed or lawn. This is the most likely location. Hopefully they haven’t been paved over.

It may take some hunting around, but most valves can be found fairly easily. If that fails then call us and we can bring out the valve locator and find them for you.



My Reticulation has Lost Pressure

Posted on 11th October 2011 in bore, Repairs

Ok so you have noticed a drop in pressure on your sprinklers.

Believe it or not the first place to check is your water meter. Make sure someone hasn’t turned the pressure down here. It happens… I have no idea why people do it but that’s the first test.

Then check and see if it is on just one station or on all.

If its ‘all’ then you have a break in your mainline – that’s the 25ml or 40ml main pipe that feeds to the solenoids. This should show up in a large puddle of water somewhere.  You may need to leave it on for a while if its just a small crack as it will take a while for it to show through.

If its just one station then you will have either a broken pipe in the line or a broken riser.


Check for pooling around the sprinklers as that will indicate a riser problem. If you can move the sprinkler then its likely the riser is broken. If not then you will need to check the line for cracks and breaks. This can be a long tedious process as you will need to locate the break and sometimes its not obvious.

A small crack can result in a significant pressure drop but can be a pain to find.

Here’s one my father worked on recently. His pressure on this one station dropped significantly and he ended up having to trace the line until he found the problem – a joint that had cracked.


If you have a drop in pressure then the only solution is to keep looking till you find it – or call us and we will look for you!



Are all Reticulation Parts Equal?

Posted on 12th July 2011 in Installing


Absolutely not!

Beware of using cheap sprinklers as they will cause you pain.

Before I began Brighton Reticulation I was a retic cheapskate. I would use the cheapest parts I could find from K Mart or Bunnings, but get annoyed when they would foul up shortly after installation.

In the last few years I have become increasingly convinced of the value of using top quality parts.

The way I see it, a cheap sprinkler usually lasts a season or two and costs around $2-$7.00. A Toro sprinkler costs around $10.00 and if used regularly should last around 5 years and even up to 10 years.

You can do it cheap, but expect to do it twice or three times before a toro sprinkler even gets close to reaching its use by date. If your time is valuable then you will have saved plenty.

At Brighton Reticulation we simply don’t use cheap parts and won’t even consider it as it would result in many more call backs than we would be able to cater with.





My Reticulation Goes Through the Whole Cycle and Then Starts Over

Posted on 30th April 2011 in Controllers, Ideas, Never Seen That One Before, Repairs

I have heard of this happening a couple of times. The whole program runs through as normal and then starts over and repeats itself on and on and on… not good.

Clearly the solenoid valves are opening and shutting and are not stuck on so the issue can really only lie with a fault in the control box.

On both occasions when this has happened I have replaced the control box and it has fixed the problem. So if this sounds like you then that’s most likely your solution!

For help or advice with these issues call Andrew on 0400044236 or email


How To Fix Your Own Reticulation

Posted on 30th April 2011 in Repairs

If you talk to a mechanic about why a car isn’t running they will tell you its either fuel, electrics or air supply causing the problem.  If it aint running then its going to be one of these issues causing the problem.

With reticulation its also pretty simple.

If its not coming on then its either electrical,  mechanical or hydraulic

Let’s assume a solenoid isn’t coming on. Either the controller isn’t working, the coil isn’t working (electrics) or the diaphragm is stuck shut (mechanical) There simply isn’t another option, so you will be able to sort it out one way or another by eliminating the variables. Always start with the controller and check voltage there as it is the most accessible point.

Of if your sprinklers are spraying poorly chances are you have simply configured the system wrongly so that there is too much demand on the water supply. Block off a few nozzles and see if it improves.  Failing that wander around the yard and look for a broken pipe. If the pressure was good and is now poor then logically you have to be losing water somewhere.

I haven’t struck a job yet that is unsolvable because in retic you are dealing with a closed system. There are only so many things that can go wrong and sooner or later by a logical process you will find the issue.

And if you don’t just give me a call or send me an email 0400044236








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Reticulation Repairs in Perth

Posted on 26th April 2011 in Installations, Repairs


At Brighton Reticulation we aim to service the northern coastal region so typically we will be work in the areas north of Scarborough right up to Two Rocks.

Most of our work is in the Butler, Mindarie, Quinns Rocks and Clarkson areas, but we are happy to travel as required.

For reticulation work in areas other than these see this post.

For help with any of these issues call Andrew on 0400044236 or email

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How to Fix a Broken PVC Pipe

Posted on 1st April 2011 in Repairs

Ok so you’ve stuck a spade through a PVC pipe or maybe just pierced it. How do you repair it without digging it all up so you have enough flex to insert a coupling?

There are two options.

The first is the best option for a significant break and that is to use a slipfix/ telescopic fitting. Simply cut the pipe at either end, attach a PVC coupling to one side and then glue the narrow end of the slipfix into the coupling. Allow a couple of minutes for it to dry and then slide it over the other end of the pipe.

Give it some time to dry and you’re done. Simple.

A different method that I have used on several occasions is to use a ‘snap on’ tee to fix a small hole. If it is a puncture or a blow out and the hole is 5ml in diameter or thereabouts then you can simply smother the snap on fitting in glue, cover the pipe with glue and press it over the break.

I have worried that these may come away under pressure, but so far no problems. This is a cheaper solution than the slip fix obviously.

For help with any of these issues call Andrew on 0400044236 or email




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My Reticulation Doesn’t Come On At All

Posted on 28th March 2011 in Repairs

Ok so nothing works?

Here is a series of checks to eliminate the most obvious possibilities:

1. The first thing to check is whether the control box has power and is functioning. I know this sounds obvious, but firstly check for a display. if there is no digital display then the controller may be fried.

2. If there is a display check for power. Put the leads of a multimeter on common and master/pump terminals and see if you get at least 24 volts. If not then you have a tripped RCD, or your transformer may have malfunctioned. If this is the case then its most likely going to be a new controller…

3. If the controller is sending voltage then the next place to look is at your master solenoid. In most cases this will be located within a metre of the water meter. Go to this solenoid and check if there is power getting to it. If not then there may well be a broken wire somewhere in the system.

4. Turn the solenoid on manually and then see if you can set the program running. If it works then its likely that the power wire to the solenoid is broken. If nothing works then it may be that your common wire is broken and you will need to locate the break.

5.  If there is power at the solenoid but nothing works then the fault will be with the solenoid itself. Its very likely the coil has malfunctioned and needs replacing. This isn’t difficult. Unscrew it and put another one on. If this doesn’t fix things then the solenoid is stuck shut and it will likely be the diaphragm that is the problem.

6. If you can unscrew the top the solenoid then you can replace the diaphragm.

By this process of elimination you should be able to locate and remedy the problem.

For help with any of these issues call Andrew on 0400044236 or email




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You Get What You Pay For in Sprinklers

Posted on 4th March 2011 in Repairs

Its not particularly difficult to change a sprinkler, but what matters is getting the right sprinkler. If you buy a quality ‘brand-name’  product then there is no question it will last a lot longer than those purchased from a local hardware store.

Its really a classic case of getting what you pay for.

My sprinkler of choice for normal pop-up work is the Toro 3P available at all Total Eden Stores. You’ll pay about $10.00 for sprinkler and nozzle but you can expect to get around 4-5 years out of a quality sprinkler whereas  ‘cheapies’  from the hardware store will probably last you a year if you’re lucky.

So if changing sprinklers isn’t your idea of fun on a weekend then buy quality and you won’t have to do it every year.

For help with any of these issues call Andrew on 0400044236 or email


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