A common misconception is that retic should run for 10 minutes. NOT SO! You are allowed to apply 10mls of water on your watering day. This is where the confusion comes from. 10ml not 10min! So different nozzles require different run times. Normal Toro – 10-15 minutes MP Rotators – 45-60 minutes Gear drives – 20-40 minutes (The difference is related to the spacing between the sprinklers.) But don’t buy the 10 minutes thing!
Read MoreIf you see water running down your street like this from the sprinkler at the bottom of the hill then it means you have at least one leaky solenoid. The next step is to locate the correct solenoid and change it over. We can do this quickly with our solenoid detector and we can generally get the location perfect which minimises the digging in your lawn. Here you can see we have been able to pinpoint the faulty valve. Then once the valve is exchanges we test it and make sure all is working as it should be. And just […]
Read MoreNope… If your reticulation isn’t working then changing the battery will just be $9 down the drain. The battery is not responsible for the operation of the sprinklers. It simply helps to retain the settings when the power goes off. Your retic needs 24v if power to open the solenoids so changing a battery wont do the job. If it’s not working then it could be any one of a number of issues – but it won’t be the battery!
Read MoreIf your retic doesn’t come on then it will usually be one of a few common problems. 1. The controller is faulty. If there is a display on the controller then it is less likely that this is the issue, but it could be a faulty terminal or circuit board. 2. The master solenoid has seized. It has got stuck shut and needs replacing. 3. There is a broken wire to the master solenoid or a broken common wire. If you have done some digging in the yard then you may have accidentally struck wires. They are only 24v so […]
Read MoreEvery irrigation has a common wire that connects all of the solenoids together and in most cases it is a black wire, as this is the colour most commonly used. The common wire is found in the ‘c’ terminal and is vital to the systems operation. If a common wire gets cut then all of the solenoids that it connects together will be out of action. Its usual to have one strand of multi core wire serving the front of a house and another strand serving the rear, so if you find that all of your rear solenoids have stopped […]
Read MoreIf your solenoid looks like this then don’t be surprised if it’s not functioning as it should be. Any solenoid buried in soil should be covered by a valve box otherwise corrosion is inevitable. If you find your controller is blowing fuses or showing error messages then this may be the problem.
Read MoreLike everything in life, the preparation matters! When laying turf it matters to: – get a good thick layer of quality soil – ensure your retic covers all areas – screed the ground to dead level – spread fertiliser – water the ground Then lay turf… If you do all of the above you can expect an excellent result. If not then it may turn out lumpy or it may not have the same vigorous start that new lawn needs
Read MoreIt’s what we do. We can often get a whole house done in a day, like this one up in Two Rocks that we did this week. If you have an established lawn then our trencher will cut thru it and we will get the new system installed neatly and quickly. We can supply soil to fill those trenches and get everything looking clean and tidy at the end. So if you’re looking for a new system then give us a call! Generally we will discuss the project with you on the phone, give you a ballpark price range […]
Read MoreSometimes your retic fails and you just can’t be bothered fixing it… If that is the case then chances are that after a season or two roots will have infested the system and we will have to hey them out before it will work again. Like anything in life – the longer you leave it the more costly and time consuming it is to repair. So if you’ve been delaying on that fix you know that you need then give us a call now!
Read MoreOk – possibly the single most common issue I hit each year is this problem. First up – there is no fuse and no battery in the controller! Silly I know – to have a ‘fuse’ message and a battery symbol at the same time. The average DIY would look for a dodgy fuse or a faulty battery. What the message actually means is that there is either a fault in the controller or a fault in a solenoid. The way to determine the issue is simply to remove wires and keep resetting the controller and testing it. If it […]
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