No its not Bede Anderson of Mr Retic… although he is a good mate.
Its my trencher in the trailer with Bede’s on its way down to Welshpool for its annual service. There are a lot of things in life I can live without, but if my trencher carked it then I might be considering another business…
That said I only get it off the trailer for big jobs and often just dig the trenches by hand to stay fit.
But when it comes to cutting through established turf and doing the job quickly it just can’t be beaten. Hence the title ‘my best mate’…
This week I did a front yard makeover in Joondalup. It involved removing the old lawn/weed, installing some new retic and then laying some turf.
The existing turf had turned to weeds and looked almost impossible to revive, so the process was:
a) Spray existing turf / weeds and kill off what is there.
b) The bobcat came and removed existing stuff to a depth of around 100ml and then filled with special lawn mix so that it was 20-30ml below kerb level.
c) Reinstall retic and ensure all is getting covered. This involved placing sprinklers around the perimeter of the property spraying in as well as in the middle spraying out. The previous system had a row of sprinklers down the middle and consequently missed much of the lawn. I also installed a new Hunter X Core to make watering so much easier.
c) Screed and lay the new wintergreen lawn.
The budget for a project like this is usually around $3000.00.
Here’s a before and after shot so you can see the difference
When it comes to retic in Two Rocks, especially on an established property, you need to be ready for some serious digging and some hard yakka. As the suburb name suggests there is a lot of rock up there and sometimes you just have to go around what you can’t go through.
I did this job last week, installing a whole retic system – 200m of PVC – to an established property. There were lots of roots and rocks to contend with but also some nice long sandy patches. Thankfully the faithful trencher didn’t let me down and I managed to get it all done in the day.
Without the trencher there would be 2-3 days of work in this one. I used a combination of MP rotators and precision nozzles to get it all done on 3 stations.
Spring is almost upon us and its time to get your reticulation system back in order.
Don’t wait until the first hot day and then turn it back on only to discover its not up to the job. Call us and we will make sure everything from control box to nozzles are working perfectly!
Winter is the quiet time for retic blokes and the crew at Brighton Retic are taking our annual leave until August 7th.
If you require service work then we will be happy to get back in touch as soon as we get back. If you would like a quote then please email and we will be in touch when we pick it up.
Alternatively for service work, we can highly recommend Bede Anderson of Mr Retic for northern suburbs work 0452227204 or Luke from Luke’s Landscaping for work south of the river 0424133950.
In case you weren’t aware all reticulation needs to be switched off as of June 1st and until Aug 31st.
For most controllers it is a simple matter of turning the dial to ‘off’ and ensuring the sprinklers don’t run. If you continue to run your retic over winter then you will get fined around $150.00
If you aren’t sure how to switch the system off then give us a call and we’ll try and talk you thru it over the phone.
One of the occupational hazards of doing retic and using a mechanical trencher is that we sometimes hit other pipes under the ground. Some are easier to fix than others and some require a plumber. Where we can we will fix the pipes on the spot, but it isn’t always possible.
Yesterday I accidentally cut thru a stormwater pipe thinking it was the conduit supplied for retic under a driveway. I was half way thru the cut (trimming what I thought was excess) when I realised what I had done… Oops… The pipe I wanted was further down the drive, but now I was left with the job of repairing my mistake.
Sometimes when stormwater pipe is chipped or cracked we can fix it by using another piece of stormwater, cutting it lengthways and using it a a sleeve. You slip it over, glue it and usually that’s all good.
In this case I needed to actually rejoin the two pipes – tricky when neither of them are flexible. It was a clean cut but it was all the way thru so a sleeve wasn’t going to work.
Get a 90ml coupling, lift the most ‘movable’ piece of pipe above the other and slip the coupling over it. Slide it right along, then realign the pipes and pull the coupling back over the other piece of pipe. When you are sure you have it lined up slide it up again and use some glue. You need to be sure not to get sand in between the pipes or they won’t slide.
If you have a whole section of pipe that needs replacing, or if it is impossible to lift the pipe up then simply use two couplings and do the same thing but insert a new piece of pipe where the damaged section was.
My son discovered this video on Youtube today and is pretty keen to make one… Luckily we have all the parts we need in the back of the Cruiser!
Sometimes it can be difficult to install a system when there is no way of running wire from the control box to the solenoids. Maybe the liquid limestone went in too quickly and people hadn’t considered the future problems.
It may not be all over…
There are a couple of battery powered solenoids models available that require w ater supply, but do not need a control box positioned on the wall. We prefer to use the Hunter Node for reliability and ease of use. It functions in much the same way as the X Core controller and had the option of installing multiple solenoids, so even if you can’t access your water meter or get power to your solenoids the ‘Node’ may still allow you have a functioning retic system