Remember those old holiday shacks with grass driveways that always showed the furrows where the car had been driven into the asbestos shed at the back of the property?
Well maybe grass driveways are on the return.
This story in the news today is about a local Perth bloke who installed a special grass driveway using ‘Grass-Cel technology and now the council don’t believe it conforms to their specs…
‘Grass-Cel’ turf pavers are made of porous recycled plastic overlaid with soil and seeded with grass. They take the brunt of a car while allowing grass to grow undamaged.
I guess its not everyone’s cup of tea, but it does allow for a much greener street. The down side is obviously more water usage. It looks easy to install and would certainly be a viable alternative to concrete. Its around $35.00/m just to supply and then there would be installation and the lawn & soil on top. Not cheap, but definitely an alternative to concrete or paving.
Its not a new idea with the company having been around for 30 years or so, but its an idea if you love grass and hate concrete or paving…
Here’s a video of it all getting laid:
Its always nice when you get a chance to see how a garden you have worked in has developed and grown. I did some work for D & D from Quinns Rocks around 18 months ago and then went back this week to help them with the front yard.
This is how the back looks 18 months later.
The turf is Empire Zoyzia and there is an assortment of some beautiful plants in there too.
Like all turfs the Zoyzia goes dormant over winter, but it is just starting to come back nicely now.
This is not a question with a simple answer, because the response depends on the type of sprinklers you are using and how they apply water.
The goal is to get 10ml of water to your lawn/garden each time they operate so different nozzles will require different run times. For example regular pop-ups can be run for around 12 minutes to apply 10mls.
Toro precision nozzles need to be left on for around 25 mins to get the same result. Then there are the MP Rotators which need 45-50 mins to deliver 10mls.
There are specs for each type of sprinkler available from the manufacturers or your retic guy can help you make sense of it. Here’s an example of how to find the answer. The chart shows that PGP needs to be on for 60 mins to apply 10ml.
The important thing is to remember that not all sprinklers deliver water at the same rate.
You can use the good ole hacksaw, but there is a better way.
The hacksaw leaves burred edges and can be unwieldy, but a good set of PVC cutters will slice thru PVC and black poly easily and give a clean cut every time.
They last for ages and you can pick up a pair at any retic shop. Most cutters suit up to 25ml pipe, but you can get some that will do up to 40ml pipe also.
As a local business we can offer great prices on a new Retic system or a backyard Retic and turf package.
If you’ve been living in a sandpit and dreading winter when it will all turn to mud then give us a call and we can come around and discuss what you need.
Winter prices are generally 10-20% cheaper than spring/summer so now is the time to get yourself a bargain.
If you use microsprays in your garden beds then they will get blocked.
Its inevitable as they have very small openings and it only takes a little grit or dirt to clog them up.
The fix is easy. Just unscrew the nozzle, get a needleor piece of wire and use the needle to clean the jet out. If you push it through the hole then you will remove the blockage and can then keep using the nozzle.
Alternatively you can just buy a new nozzle for around $1.00!
When it comes to watering your garden you have several choices:
a) Microsprays – these are the most commonly used product as they generate a lot of water can be targeted at individual plants and are also cheap. Their negative is that they tend to mist and a lot of their spray gets lost. They also get blocked easily.
b) Shrub Sprays – these are larger rigid risers that have a similar spray pattern to regular pop-ups so they can cover areas 3-4 metres with no problem. They are good for garden beds over 1.2m in width where microsprays would not give adequate coverage. Their negatives are that they are a little more expensive and because they are also spaced further apart if a shrub happens to grow up and block the spray then they become ineffective. (The picture is only of the head as the risers can any length)
c) Subsurface Irrigation / Miniscape – If installed correctly and run for the correct length of time approx (60 mins) this is a highly efficient method of watering. The slow release dripline is spaced at either 15ml or 30ml intervals and waters the base of the plant. There is no wastage due to wind. The negatives of this system is that it is more costly and it is also a bit more difficult to work around if you plan on digging in the garden. I have installed this several times and can see the benefits, but personally I like to see the water being distributed.
d) Adjustable Staked Drippers – This is a good middle ground between the water efficient miniscape and the less waterwise microsprays/risers. With this system individual drippers are placed either next to a plant or between plants and they then drip/spray to a very localised area. The drippers can be adjusted to spray a radius of up to 800ml or they can be turned right down to a mere trickle. They are more expensive than the microsprays but I’d suggest they are an excellent compromise between water volume, visibility and expense.
At the end of the day you need to be satisfied that what you choose is going to do the job for you, but these are some of the most common options.