I first came across these 7 years ago just as I was starting up Brighton retic and over that time I’d rate them as brilliant nozzles. As well as operating efficiently on properties with low flow rates, they have proven to be highly durable.
I have often installed these on properties and returned several years later to find they are still working perfectly. Generally if an MP stops working it is simply a case of removing the nozzle and filter, cleaning the filter and then reassembling. The filter catches most of the junk and stops it affecting the nozzle.
They aren’t cheap but they do offer excellent results and longevity.
This is unusual.
I was called to a job in Jindalee where the PVC pipe had simply blown out. Where you can see the hole the PVC is soft and pliable and for some reason it had blown there.
Occasionally this happens but I haven’t figured out why yet…
Does your controller look like this one?
Lost its display or just hard to read?
Does it come on at odd times?
Chances are if it does then it might need replacing…
Give me a call on 0400044236 for great prices on a new controller all set up and ready to go!
If you find your new home has very poor water flow/pressure then you might want to take a look at your water meter and see if its been fitted with a restrictor.
This week I arrived to do a job on a local property only to discover the water flow was absolutely abysmal – around 10 litres / minute and barely enough to get two half sprays sprinklers up and running.
With turf arriving in a few hours the retic needed completing so I texted my local plumber a pic of the meter and he advised me that it was fitted with a restricting device. He kindly sent a staff member around immediately and we replaced the device with an ordinary brass elbow.
It was back to normal and the job got completed with no hitches.
I’ve only had it once before but its worth considering if you are having problems with water flow
Spring is the busiest time of year for the replacement of reticulation control boxes. At the end of winter we stroll out to switch the retic back on only to discover the box has died and needs replacing.
We specialise in the supply and installation of top quality reticulation control boxes and generally prefer the Hunter X Core for its quality and features.
If you are seeking a new box then check our other site www.reticcontrollerman.com for info on various brands and prices.
On Friday I had a call from a client in Yanchep who had installed a solenoid, but was having problems. The two stations in the back were coming on together.
So I went out to see what was going on.
What was odd was that the two rear stations came on together but they didn’t come on when the front retic station was running. Normally if a solenoid fails open it stays on with every other station.
But in this case station one came on, then station two and three together.
So I checked:
- The direction of flow on the solenoid he had installed. It was correct.
- The wiring and the voltage at the solenoid. It was all perfect.
- Whether the solenoid was clogged with glue or dirt, but both were fine.
- Whether the controller had failed and was sending voltage on both stations rather than individually. It wasn’t…
There was no apparent reason and I was running out of options as all of the logical solutions were coming up blank.
Finally I decided to check whether a different controller would get a different result so we wired one up to test it. As I was doing this I asked the client why he replaced the solenoid.
He told me ‘I didn’t replace it – I added it to split the rear yard in two.’ And as he said that, it dawned on me what had happened. What was once a complete station had been divided in two – but not completely. Somewhere there was still a connection underground. It was the only explanation left for why both stations came on simultaneously.
When we discussed it he agreed and I left him to dig some holes and find that elusive connection.
There is always a logical solution to retic problems, but sometimes you need to gather all the information to make sense of it.
When it comes to retic in Two Rocks, especially on an established property, you need to be ready for some serious digging and some hard yakka. As the suburb name suggests there is a lot of rock up there and sometimes you just have to go around what you can’t go through.
I did this job last week, installing a whole retic system – 200m of PVC – to an established property. There were lots of roots and rocks to contend with but also some nice long sandy patches. Thankfully the faithful trencher didn’t let me down and I managed to get it all done in the day.
Without the trencher there would be 2-3 days of work in this one. I used a combination of MP rotators and precision nozzles to get it all done on 3 stations.
Spring is almost upon us and its time to get your reticulation system back in order.
Don’t wait until the first hot day and then turn it back on only to discover its not up to the job. Call us and we will make sure everything from control box to nozzles are working perfectly!
In case you weren’t aware all reticulation needs to be switched off as of June 1st and until Aug 31st.
For most controllers it is a simple matter of turning the dial to ‘off’ and ensuring the sprinklers don’t run. If you continue to run your retic over winter then you will get fined around $150.00
If you aren’t sure how to switch the system off then give us a call and we’ll try and talk you thru it over the phone.
One of the occupational hazards of doing retic and using a mechanical trencher is that we sometimes hit other pipes under the ground. Some are easier to fix than others and some require a plumber. Where we can we will fix the pipes on the spot, but it isn’t always possible.
Yesterday I accidentally cut thru a stormwater pipe thinking it was the conduit supplied for retic under a driveway. I was half way thru the cut (trimming what I thought was excess) when I realised what I had done… Oops… The pipe I wanted was further down the drive, but now I was left with the job of repairing my mistake.
Sometimes when stormwater pipe is chipped or cracked we can fix it by using another piece of stormwater, cutting it lengthways and using it a a sleeve. You slip it over, glue it and usually that’s all good.
In this case I needed to actually rejoin the two pipes – tricky when neither of them are flexible. It was a clean cut but it was all the way thru so a sleeve wasn’t going to work.
Get a 90ml coupling, lift the most ‘movable’ piece of pipe above the other and slip the coupling over it. Slide it right along, then realign the pipes and pull the coupling back over the other piece of pipe. When you are sure you have it lined up slide it up again and use some glue. You need to be sure not to get sand in between the pipes or they won’t slide.
If you have a whole section of pipe that needs replacing, or if it is impossible to lift the pipe up then simply use two couplings and do the same thing but insert a new piece of pipe where the damaged section was.