One of the occupational hazards of doing retic and using a mechanical trencher is that we sometimes hit other pipes under the ground. Some are easier to fix than others and some require a plumber. Where we can we will fix the pipes on the spot, but it isn’t always possible.
Yesterday I accidentally cut thru a stormwater pipe thinking it was the conduit supplied for retic under a driveway. I was half way thru the cut (trimming what I thought was excess) when I realised what I had done… Oops… The pipe I wanted was further down the drive, but now I was left with the job of repairing my mistake.
Sometimes when stormwater pipe is chipped or cracked we can fix it by using another piece of stormwater, cutting it lengthways and using it a a sleeve. You slip it over, glue it and usually that’s all good.
In this case I needed to actually rejoin the two pipes – tricky when neither of them are flexible. It was a clean cut but it was all the way thru so a sleeve wasn’t going to work.
Get a 90ml coupling, lift the most ‘movable’ piece of pipe above the other and slip the coupling over it. Slide it right along, then realign the pipes and pull the coupling back over the other piece of pipe. When you are sure you have it lined up slide it up again and use some glue. You need to be sure not to get sand in between the pipes or they won’t slide.
If you have a whole section of pipe that needs replacing, or if it is impossible to lift the pipe up then simply use two couplings and do the same thing but insert a new piece of pipe where the damaged section was.
The cost of Perth water increased another 10% in 2013 so it is more important than ever that you are careful with the use of your reticulation. It is estimated that up to 50% of household water usage is attributed to the sprinkler system so it pays not to waste any of that water.
One option I encourage people to consider is the installation of a bore. While the upfront cost of around $4K is significant if you plan on being in the property long term then this is an option well worth considering.
The price of water* is tiered i.e. the more you use, the more you pay. This is to help encourage the careful use of water.
- 0 – 150 kL costs $1.381 per kL
- 151 – 500 kL costs $1.841 per kL
- Over 500 kL costs $2.607 per kL
If you live in Western Australia then June 1st is the day when all sprinklers get switched off for the next 3 months. Simply turn the dial on your controller to ‘off’ and come back in September to turn it on again. Between now and then there should be enough rain to see you through and keep your lawn and garden healthy.
This restriction doesn’t apply to new lawns which can still receive a watering exemption while they are being established.
If you aren’t sure what to do just give me a call and I’ll help you out – no cost
If you have an X Core controller that seems to be playing up then the most likely cause is that it needs resetting.
This can be done easily.
1. Press and hold the ‘PROG’ button.
2. While holding the ‘PROG’ button press the RESET button for 3 seconds, then release the RESET button while continuing to hold the ‘PROG’ button.
3. Continue holding ‘PROG’ button until time is displayed (this takes about 8 seconds)
On September 1 we can all switch our retic back on.
Inevitably that is the time when you discover that it isn’t working quite the way you hope it should. If that is the case and your retic needs servicing then give us a call on 0400044236 and we can book you in.
The spring and early summer months are always flat out so beat the rush and get in asap!
The first time I did some DIY retic I tried to install my kerbside sprinklers by digging along the line of the kerb.
After 10 minutes I had all but given up. You see the soil along the kerb is actually roadbase. It is hard and rocky and not easy digging. If you want to install sprinklers along the kerb then dig a trench one metre away from the kerb and parallel to it and then ‘t’ off to the point where you need sprinklers. You will still need to do some hard digging but it will save you a lot of effort and you will do the job right.
The other tip with kerbside sprinklers is to make sure they are well below kerb height – because they will get driven over. If you’re lucky they won’t get damaged, but if they are even sticking up a little bit then expect to replace them regularly.
I get calls from one client a few times each summer to replace the same sprinkler. Personally I reckon it would be easier just to sink the sprinkler a bit lower…
When you live in the outermost suburb of the city it can be difficult to find good tradies. For Two Rocks residents we want you to know that Brighton Reticulation is based in Yanchep and is able to give prompt, reliable service at very short notice.
We are a local business and committed to the local area so give us a call and we will be able to give you an excellent price and top notch service on your retic and turf needs.
We offer some general guidelines on our home page here, but the truth is it can vary considerably depending on the type of soil we need to dig in, the ease of accessibility and the simplicty or otherwise of the job. A new house is fairly easy to give an estimate for and we suggest that typical costs to expect are:
- Retic cut in by licensed plumber $180.00 + GST
- Hardwiring of controller $160.00 + GST
- Wireless rain sensor (only compulsory if you wish to get a lawn watering exemption) $150.00 + GST
- Electronic Controller $200.00-$400.00 + GST (depending on what is chosen)
- Installation / pipes / sprinklers etc see below
To give you an idea of what to expect a very rough ball park figure for a 4 x 2 home on a 600m block with 5 or 6 stations is usually around $2600.00 + GST including plumber and sparkie. These prices do vary with the seasons so if you ‘need it done now’ over summer chances are that with any retic business you will pay a premium. If you can wait until winter then you will probably save 10-20%.
A front install on this kind of home would be around $1500.00 + GST and a rear install usually around $1100.00 + GST.
If your home is established and we need to dig through grass, tree roots and flower beds then we will charge extra for that, but a straightforward installation is usually in the ballpark of the prices above.
But the best way to go is to get in touch and we can then meet up onsite, walk thru the plans and get a clear picture from there.
A lot of people ask me what the best sprinklers are, and the answer is that it depends on the job it needs to do.
Here are some pros and cons of various types of sprinklers:
Standard Toro/Rainbird pop-ups: are good sprinklers in that distribute a lot of water in a short space of time and they are cheap and easy to replace. If well maintained the sprinkler body and seals can easily last 5 years. Their negative is that their spray can mist and get easily blown by the wind.
Gear Drives – Gear drives are tough and are generally used over larger areas or where there may be traffic expected. You wouldn’t use gear drives in smaller lawn areas as they are really suited to areas 8m and larger. You can generally only get 3 gear drives/station off suburban pressure, but if you have a rectangular backyard then these could suit. They are more expensive than the standard pop-up, but you will use fewer of them.
MP Rotators – These are nozzles that slot inside regular sprinkler bodies. They distribute water slowly and allow better penetration. They can also span large areas and an entire front lawn can often be done on one station because of their low water requirements. Their negative is that they are expensive and if you have a bore they will result in your pump running for longer.
Impact Sprinklers – these are the classic old ‘machine gun’ types that pump out a heap of water over a very long distance and have an adjustable arc. These aren’t pretty because they need to sit above surface level but they can cover a huge area so if you are tight on $$ and want to do the job cheaply one of these in each corner might just get you by.